Fixing Another Mistake
Note: clicking the photos links to a higher resolution image
The project resumes, after a summer's worth of sailing.
All summer long, I've been looking occasionally at the boat in the garage, and ruminating over the problem with the somewhat tilted cockpit sole. Last season, I thought the error was small enough to ignore... but now, I realize that it just doesn't look right, and I want to fix it. This annoys me, because it means I'll be spending three or four sessions essentially repeating work that I should have done properly in the first place!
Since the floors are already screwed and epoxied in place, trying to trim them to be level would be very difficult. Instead, my plan is to make tapered shims to attach to the top edge of the floor, in order to level the support for the floorboards.
It might be hard to see in this photo, but if you look at the forward edge of the floorboards in comparison to the lower edge of the deckframe, you can see the tilt
It will take another session to cut and trim the small tapered sections that support the screwed-on cockpit sole pieces at the sides.
Since I don't have enough room to use the table saw (with an angled fence), I use the sabre saw to cut the tapered shims
I finish the small matching tapered shims that are used to support the boards along the side which aren't removable. This is a VERY tedious session, especially when trying to replicate the thin tapers on the starboard side.
It's a good thing that both planes I normally use (a Stanley bench plane and a Stanley low angle block plane) had recently sharpened blades. The white ash I used to make the tapered shims planed beautifully, with nice even shavings.
The short tapered sections support the fixed floorboards along each side
OK, I'm done fixing the mistake... the only thing remaining is to epoxy the shims in place (they're temporarily screwed into place for test fitting).
Next up: some interior detail before I can prime and paint: installing the bow eye, the gudgeons on the stern, and a few other minor details.
Finally the floorboards are level!
I install the gudgeons for the rudder now... since I can still reach into the hull, it's easier than waiting until after the deck is on. These RaceLite gudgeons and pintles look quite strong; they are mounted with eight 1/4-20 x 3" screws, washers, and nuts.
The pintles are resting in the gudgeons to help sight a straight line... looks good!
The bow eye gets installed. I used some long drill bits to drill as straight as possible through the leading edge of the hull, into the stem. The holes weren't perfect on the inside; one of them seemed to skew to starboard, but only slightly. The bow eye is secured with washers and nuts.
At this point, there's going to be a lapse of some time where there won't be any photos... I need to coat some internal members, like the floors and the mast step, with epoxy, and then prime and paint the interior.
Pintles, gudgeons, bow eye: $75
The bow eye is bolted through the stem
Well, there's actually been a lot of activity on this project, even though none of it is particularly photo-worthy.
I started by epoxy-coating the faces and bottom edges of the deck framing, as well as the floors; these hadn't been protected up until now.
After that, I fully cleaned the hull interior with the shop vac, and scrubbed it with a weak solution of ammonia and hot water, using a ScotchBrite pad to scuff the epoxy surfaces in preparation for primer and paint.
I applied Zinser 1-2-3 latex primer-sealer to the hull interior. This product was very highly rated in a comparison of primers, and since it is water-based, it was relatively inoffensive to use.
I gave the interior two coats in most sections, but only one coat in the bow area (it won't be seen once the deck goes on).
As of this writing, I'm applying the finish coat to the interior of the hull. I'm using Behr Porch and Floor, in a silver grey color, which is yet another latex water-based product. Very little of the interior of the hull is going to be seen once the cockpit sole and seats are installed, so I'm not going for a perfect finish here. Based on the appearance of the primed surface, it looks more than acceptable.
Hopefully, I'll finish this task in a few days, and will be ready for the deck!
Cost for this phase: around $80 for primer, paint, brushes.
I've finally finished the primer and paint on the hull interior... it took quite a few boring sessions to do this. The finish isn't exactly pristine, but most of this won't be seen anyhow, so it doesn't really matter. I am very pleased with the Behr Porch and Deck paint; it flows nicely and dries rapidly, leaving what seems to be a very hard and fairly glossy finish... I hope it stands up.
Next up: the deck.
The interior primer and paint is finally finished; the heat lamps speed the cure
Page log:
Inwales and Interior Fiberglass
The Project Resumes... Floorboards
Essays:
Using epoxy in cold conditions
Errors, bad judgments, and lessons learned